Monday, March 22, 2021

Kakistocracy XIV:And Their Refinement of the Decline.

Earlier this month, a thirty-three year old woman left her friends house in Clapham and headed home over the Common and along the South Circular Road. As we all know now, Sarah Everard never made it home and soon after her disappearance a serving officer of the Metropolitan Police, Wayne Couzens, was arrested on suspicion of her murder.

It caused, understandably, a tidal wife of grief and, equally understandably, women all over the country came forward to share their own stories of fearful walks home, crossing roads to avoid strangers, clutching keys in their hands in case of the need for self-defence, and, of course, some far more harrowing stories.

The point was made, quite correctly, that it is no longer, and never was, the job of women to make sure they don't get raped and murdered. It is the job of men to make sure they don't carry out rapes and murders. So, when a peaceful vigil in honour of Sarah Everard was held in Clapham Common a week later, self-distanced and masked, you'd think the Met may have policed it lightly.

They, of course, did not. The mostly female protestors on Clapham Common were treated a lot more aggressively than the mostly male anti-lockdown protestors on Oxford Street this weekend. The behaviour of the police was utterly shameful. So was, unsurprisingly, the behaviour of our government. Instead, led on by chief bully Priti Patel, they announced the Police, Crime, Sentencing and Courts Bill (which could make it a more serious offence to attack a statue than a woman) and tried to use the cover of Covid to sneak through a piece of legislation that would be the greatest infringement on our civil liberties in my life so far.

My suspicion/fear is that this is partly because the government are planning to block any attempt at a public inquiry into their mishandling of the pandemic and they're only too aware that that will go down very badly with millions of people and that tens, hundreds, of thousands of those people will wish to protest about that. If formerly legal demonstrations are criminalised then it is not only acceptable, but it is correct, to take part in, and to incite, civil unrest. Which is exactly what we saw in Bristol this weekend.


At least up to a point. I agreed with Bristol's mayor Marvin Rees, himself an opponent of the bill, when he said that when the protest turned to violence it became "counter-productive" and was more likely to be used by the government to promote the bill than it was to stop it. Which I can't help thinking might have been part of their ambition. This is a particularly combative, aggressive, and divisive government and one that has come to believe it only survives because of those traits.

If you keep changing the meaning of civil unrest then more people will be found guilty of it. This is a government that thrives on creating enemies and this bill provides them with plenty. As long as proxy cultural wars can be waged an inquiry into the mishandling of the pandemic can be postponed indefinitely. Which would be a huge injustice to all those who unnecessarily lost their lives because of Johnson's administration

Rafael Behr wrote, in The Guardian, that "for most people, the pandemic is not a question of party allegiance, or political at all, in the sense of electoral rivalries fought out in Westminster. That does not mean there is no interest in the truth. It is possible to see blameless tragedy and harm aggravated by incompetence reflected on different surfaces of the same event. The urgency in setting up an inquiry is not to accelerate the settling of partisan scores, but to secure for posterity the foundations of fact on which the history of the pandemic will be written. It is to begin the forensic work of excavating the site before it is flooded with propaganda and reshaped to the contours of a myth, narrated by the prime minister in the first person".

There needs to be an inquiry because governments cannot, and should not, escape scrutiny when over one hundred thousand people die. The £37bn spent, or wasted, on an ineffective test and trace system (about which Sir Nicholas Macpherson, the former permanent secretary to the Treasury, has tweeted that it "wins the prize for the most wasteful and inept public spending programme of all time"), the transferal of Covid patients into care homes, the first late lockdown, the second late lockdown, and the third late lockdown. All these things need to be investigated and  those responsible held accountable. Or we are in serious danger of repeating the same mistakes when the next crisis arrives. Which, with this government, will not be long.

It's not only at home that the British government is proving an unreliable player. Foreign Secretary Dominic Raab has said we should strike deals with countries with poor human rights records which would be even more shocking if it wasn't for the fact that we already do this. Raab says we need to put money before morals (hardly surprising, he's a Tory) but Britain, under Johnson, is fast gaining a reputation on the global stage as an untrustworthy player. Promises are broken as easily and glibly as they are made - and they are made very easily and very glibly.

In the last couple of weeks alone, Jonathan Calvert and George Arbuthnottt's new book Failure of State goes as far as to suggest Johnson could be charged with 'gross negligence manslaughter' and Priti Patel has suggested sending asylum seekers to be 'processed' on the Isle of Man and Gibraltar despite not even bothering to run it by, or even inform, the relevant authorities in those places of the plan. A stupid and vain thing to do though not as dumb as the time when she suggested we could use a big wave machine to force migrant boats back. Conveniently overlooking the fact that the vast majority of boats that arrive on our shores are delivering us stuff we need!


Brittania rule the waves indeed! This is a government that intends to stamp out all criticism and to face no scrutiny and that's why I write about them. Because there may be a day when I can no longer do so safely. In ways they get repetitive, Johnson, Patel, Raab and company like to pull the same tricks over and over again and, as they work, why not, but, in other ways, there is a gentle nuance to their deception. 

A slight variation in each lie, each act of cruelty. It made me think of the minimalist compositions of Steve Reich, Terry Riley, or Stars of the Lid (hence the blog title, it could have been another Stars of the Lid track - December Hunting for Vegetarian Fuckface - for the title alone - but the refinement of the decline seems to be what the Johnson administration specialise in so that's what is.


There is, necessarily, a lot of repetition in the Kakistocracy blogs to reflect this but also, hopefully, there are small but subtle changes that make up the bigger picture. Evolution of thought, rather than revolution of the mind. Fearful they may be merely philippics in an age which hardly needs more philippics I have made a point of countering my critique of our elected officials and their motivations with sections of positivity to show, hopefully, that I am not just another hateful Internet warrior. To show I do have a life outside of this blog and to bring that life into this blog.

That life, this last fortnight or so, has been pretty good. I've chatted on the phone several times to Michelle, to Ben, to Adam, and to my Mum and Dad. I've walked in Peckham Rye Park and Common, Brenchley Gardens, and I've even left London.


On Friday I went to Basingstoke to pick up a laptop for my new job (my first ride on public transport for well over two months and, wow, wasn't it exciting - I nearly squealed when the train went over a bridge) and, while I was there, I had an M&S takeaway sandwich with Cheryl while sitting on a wall overlooking a car park in an industrial estate and met Shep for a walk through the green fields between Cliddesden and Farleigh Wallop.

It was great. Much needed company and much needed fresh air. Saturday was equally good as I got my first Covid jab (which you can read ALL about here) and on Sunday I walked to Brockwell Park where I met with Pam and Kathy and we watched a swan tend its eggs.

I've attended Skeptics online events about The End of Denialism and the Vampire of Croglin Grange, I've finished reading Will Ashon's Strange Labyrinth (a lovely gift from Jack), I came third in Carole and Dylan's Kahoot quiz (behind Tony & Alex), and I somehow snatched victory from Ian on the last question of Matt's Kahoot quiz. Even more remarkably I won my Dad's sports quiz, again, despite paying no more than cursory attention to the world of sport these days.


I've watched season 3 of Ozark, Bloodlands, the 1945 film noir Detour, and The Story of Welsh Art with Huw Stephens and, while on the Welsh front, I've booked a holiday, in July, with Michelle and Evie on the Llyn peninsula in North Wales. It's in a static caravan on the edge of Hafan Y Mor, the former site of Butlins' Pwllheli, and though it's only a weekend break I am really looking forward to it.

This has all been great. Spirits have been lifted and though the point of these Kakistocracy blogs is to shine a light on the egregious behaviour of the Johnson administration (which, until he's gone, they will continue to do so) it's nice to end on a note of hope. The palliative care doctor Rachel Clarke has, for me, been one of the most trustworthy and informative frontline commentators on the pandemic and she's never been shy of giving it to those who have failed us with both barrels.

So when she wrote, on Sunday, of being "buoyed by hope" I shared her sentiments. She wrote about not just easing of lockdown restrictions and the vaccination programme's success but also about the hope she got from witnessing the "calm, resourceful, altruistic and imaginative response to disaster", from seeing people acting "impulsively, out of love and on principle, to help each other", and from living through a time when "strength, courage, and compassion have abounded". She ended her piece by writing:- 

"Four hundred years ago, John Donne asked: “What if this present were the world’s last night?” Have the grimness and fear of the past year not provided an answer? Have we not learned that when darkness falls what erupts is the impulse to care for each other? I do not know how this is going to end. But I do know – because the pandemic has taught me – that people, by and large, are reliably, tenaciously and remarkably good".

These are sentiments I echo. As the flowers begin to bloom and the trees start to blossom, it is possible to see a brighter post-pandemic future and if we can make that one with less division, more equality, more kindness, and more love then that will be all the better for everyone.


 

Sunday, March 21, 2021

Cymraeg Celf yn y Wlad fy Nhadau.

I can't speak Welsh. I know a few words but I used an online translator for the title of this blog (so it's probably wrong). But my name, David Evans, is quite Welsh. Although if it was Dafydd Ifans, like the Aberystwyth born translator, it would be even more Welsh. On the Welsh name front, I'm beaten by my dad. He's Emlyn Evans. His own father was Cary and Cary was proper Welsh.

He was from Llanelli. Which I only discovered after he'd passed. I'd always assumed he came from either Betws-y-Coed or Blaenau Ffestiniog as that's where we seemed to go, quite regularly, on holiday when I was kid. The general Snowdonia area and then the resorts of Llandudno and Rhyl. I'm not complaining. I loved it. Some of my happiest memories as a child are there. In fact, some of my happiest recent memories are in Wales too.

I love the landscape, the dramatic mountains, the verdant green valleys, the babbling brooks running down the side of the hills and I feel deeply connected to the Welsh love of song. When Cary died the church filled up gloriously with the sound of his relations singing. Landscape and song, as well as poetry and rugby, are things Wales has long been associated with but art? The story of Welsh art is one told far less often.


 Cedric Morris - Caeharris Post Office from Gwernlyn House (1935)

So when BBC2 announced they were screening a three part series, The Story of Welsh Art, with Huw Stephens (presenter on Six Music and Radio Cymru) I was intrigued - even before I knew that Gruff Rhys from Super Furry Animals would be making a guest appearance. I thought I might learn something. Which I did. But, also, I discovered a whole world of art and even though it was one that had always been there I'd never thought to search for it.

Despite the unsurprising fact that there's a lot of that glorious Welsh landscape on show, the series starts at a rather unlikely location. An industrial estate halfway between Cardiff and Pontypridd. Where the surplus art collection of Cardiff's National Museum of Wales is kept. A treasure trove of paintings and Celtic crosses. 

But that's a false start. For the real story of Welsh art begins in a far more remote spot, Anglesey, and at a time when neither Wales nor art, as concepts, even existed. Five thousand years ago. Barclodiad y Gawres (Welsh for The Giantess's Apronful) is a Neolithic burial chamber that is older than the pyramids and has outlived the wooden huts of Anglesey in which the locals would have lived at the time.

Barclodiad y Gawres (approx 3000BC)

The stones inside the chamber have been decorated with zig-zags and triangles to celebrate nature and to reflect the circularity, rather than the linearity, of life. It was rock art, abstract rock art, and the lights of the fires that would have burned within the chamber would have illuminated the art, made it dance. We can recognise it now as art but it was art made for the dead, rather than the living, to enjoy.

On the mainland, in 1833, at a site near Mold called Goblin's Hall which is supposedly haunted by a golden ghost, a gold cape (now in the British Museum in London) was discovered by those working the land. It's uncertain what, if any practical use, the cape had but it is considered to be one of the most spectacular examples of prehistoric sheet gold working ever found. Both its form and its design are unparalleled and that much gold? It can only be art. Surely?

Mold cape (1900-1600BC)

Votive offering with triskele (800BC-100AD)

More than a century later during World War II, and back in Anglesey, a runway was being built for the RAF when William Owen Roberts, the head groundsman, and his team discovered, at the site of a small lake - Llyn Cerrig Bach, the most important hoard of Celtic artifacts ever found in Britain. The triskele (the triple spiral of rotational symmetry) has gone on to become a modern logo for Celticness and appears, of course, in jewellery and tattoos. 

But all things Celtic were soon to become a niche concern in Wales with the arrival of Christianity. As small monasteries sprung up in Wales, Celtic culture slowly subsided. You have to leave Wales for England to see the first medieval Welsh Christian 'masterpiece'. Lichfield Cathedral in Staffordshire hosts the 8th century Saint Chad Gospels.

Saint Luke from the Saint Chad Gospels (8c AD)


 The Nevern Cross (10c AD)

A 236 page gospel book with eight of those pages 'illuminated'. They take in Euclidean and Pythagorean geometry as well as Hebrew numerology and they look, to me at least, not at all dissimilar to late Arabic and Islamic abstract art. Hundreds, thousands, of pilgrims would have journeyed to see the Saint Chad Gospels in the hope of a healing miracle.

It's not recorded how successful they were! As often is the case with successful new religions, Christianity used syncretism with local Celtic beliefs to cement its power. Celtic crosses, like the Nevern Cross in St Brynach's Church near Fishguard - tall and lanky, would come to be the symbol of Welsh Christianity. It's older than the English language and, when it first appeared, it would have, like many other crosses and stones, been brightly painted in vivid colours.

All the better to catch your attention, all the better to convert you. But it wasn't just Christianity making inroads into Wales. The English were too. In 1282, Llywelyn ap Gruffudd, the last native born Prince of Wales, died in the Powys village of Cilmeri and, from that point on, though the process of joining Wales to England fully took several centuries, Wales has never regained independence.

The Tree of Jesse (late 15c)

That, fortunately, didn't stop great art being made in Wales. Andrew Graham-Dixon (who you half expected to be presenting this show) has described The Tree of Jesse, or Abergavenny Jesse, in St Mary's Priory Church in that Monmouthshire town as the one unarguably great wooden figure to survive the iconoclasm of the Reformation.

Carved from a single oak tree, Jesse was the father of the Hebrew King David. Stephens, and we - the audience, marvel at the belt buckles, the sleepy eyes, and the individual hairs of what, it's widely agreed, is one of the greatest medieval sculptures in all Europe. It still has flecks of paint on it from the time when it would, like the Nevern Cross, have been illustrated.

 In Llanrhaeadr-yng-Nghinmeirch, Denbighshire there is a stained glass analogue to the Tree of Jesse which links Jesse back to David and, ultimately, to Solomon, Jesus, and God. It's the sort of thing you'd imagine Pete Frame would have worked on had he been around back then. When iconoclastic Protestant reformers of the sixteenth and seventeenth century took to smashing stained glass windows, the Jesse window was protected by locals who hid it.

Tree of Jesse stained window, St. Dyfnog's Church, Llanrhaeadr-yng-Nghinmeirch (1533) 

Medieval wall painting of Saint George and the Dragon, St Cadoc's Church, Llancarfan (late 15c)


 Hans Memling - The Donne Triptych (1470-1478)

In the Vale of Glamorgan, in the village of Llancarfan - a couple of miles north of Cardiff Airport, the parish church of Saint Cadoc contains late 15c wall paintings of St George slaying the dragon (not an event often celebrated, or even represented, in Wales) and the Virgin Mary. These paintings probably only survived because they were hidden for centuries. Only being revealed during architectural work in the church in 2008.

The Welsh courtier, diplomat, and soldier Sir John Donne had, during the 15th century, travelled extensively around northern Europe and in Bruges he met with the Early Netherlandish painter Hans Fleming and commissioned him to paint what has become known as the Donne Triptych. There is nothing particularly Welsh about the painting, image wise it's a fairly typical religious painting of its era, but it is believed to be the first painting commissioned in Wales.

It resides now, of course, in London's National Gallery. Observers of the time were in awe of Memling's virtuoso cross hatching and the way he painted folded drapery. They rejoiced in his honest handling of the subject's wrinkles, stubble, and heavy eye lids. Even (possibly) the baby Jesus's tiny cock. It's not a flattering painting. But it is, for the time, a very real one.

It set a trend. Wealthy Welsh patrons now wanted not just to commission paintings but to be immortalised in them. In Powis Castle, near Welshpool, the Herbert family really went for this. Especially Edward, Lord Herbert of Cherbury. A soldier, a poet, a traveller, a musician, and author. Lord Herbert was a Renaissance man for sure.

Powis Castle (c.1200)
 


William Larkin - Edward Herbert, 1st Baron Herbert of Cherbury (1609-1610)

Isaac Oliver - Edward Herbert (1613-1614)

Lord Herbert had duels and he had affairs but, with portraits like Isaac Oliver's, he brought to the art of Wales not just a more casual manner but a greater swagger and a more intricate form of portraiture. We're unsure if Herbert is lying down in a fit of melancholy or if he is simply waiting to be joined by a lady. 

Basically he's trying an old (and hugely unsuccessful) trick of teenage boys throughout time. The one where they sit on the stairs at a party sulking, hoping a girl comes along and puts their arm round them to see if they're alright. Which they don't - because they prefer the more confident boys in the front room dancing to Status Quo with tennis rackets (this reference may not work for younger readers).

Perhaps most importantly of all, moving away from flippant digression, is that paintings like this marked a move away from the sacred towards the personal in Welsh art. When Margam Abbey, near Port Talbot, was dissolved by King Henry VIII of England in 1536 it was sold to the Mansel family. At first the art created there was about the people who lived there (witness the Mansel wedding portrait) but by the end of the 17th century artists (sadly unnamed ones) were looking at the building and out from it instead of to those inside it.

 
British School - Thomas Mansel and his wife Jane (early 17c)

 
British School - View of Margam House, Looking South (c.1700) 

To what we all recognise now as the spectacular Welsh countryside. But these paintings had been all made by English, or even European, artists. What was missing was Welsh art made by Welsh artists. The eighteenth century saw artists like John Lewis and William Parry but it was the son of a clergyman in Montgomeryshire, Richard Wilson, who would become the pioneer in Welsh landscape art.
 
He influenced both Turner and Constable and, more indirectly, the French Impressionists. Wilson had been born in 1714 in the village of Penegoes in Snowdonia from where he could admire the view of Cader Idris. The rugged 2,000ft high mountain he climbed in 1765 to paint a landscape that revolutionised, according to this programme - and I'm not one to argue, European art.

John Lewis - The Marriage of Sir John Pryce (1793)


William Parry - John Parry, the Blind Harpist with as Assistant (c1760-1780)

Richard Wilson - Cader Idris (1765)

Richard Wilson - Landscape with Banditti:The Murder (1752)

Before Richard Wilson, Welsh artists had turned their backs on Wales. Even Wilson himself had trained in London before moving to Rome, where he painted the above Landscape with Banditti and studied the work of Claude Lorrain before returning to the UK and making work beloved of royal patrons. He earned a lifetime's wages for the sale of single painting and became a founding member of the Royal Academy.

Aged fifty, and with money no longer a worry, Wilson returned to Wales and made works that fused a hitherto unconsummated marriage between truth and beauty. People realised mountains could be beautiful and if mountains could be beautiful perhaps other previously uncelebrated sights could be too. It was Wilson's student Thomas Jones who drilled down even further on the belief that beauty could be found in truthful expression.

Jones painted, quite simply, what he could see from his window. Until the 1950s he was virtually unknown but today he is celebrated. Not for fashionable Italianate landscapes or allegorical paintings like 1770's Death of Orpheus but for more personal, more honest, and far better works like Pencerrig, made just two years later.

Richard Wilson - Snowdon from Llyn Nantlle (1765-1766)

Thomas Jones - The Death or Orpheus (c.1770)

Thomas Jones - Pencerrig (1772)

Thomas Jones - Buildings in Naples (1782)

Even more so for the works he made when he travelled to Italy. In Rome, Jones struggled to make money so he moved south to Naples. From where he opened his window, looked out to a seemingly unremarkable scene and found it in an intense, and captivating, beauty. It's one of my favourite ever paintings.

When the French Revolution cut Europe off for English artists they turned, perhaps inspired by Wilson and Jones, to Wales. Wilson and Jones had captured the beauty of the mountains and the lush green valleys but it was an English artist, a London artist born in Covent Garden, that would be the first to successfully express the wildness of Wales' rugged coastline and the more imposing snow capped mountains.

Wales shaped JMW Turner and JMW Turner shaped how we see Wales. He was not always a truthful painter. He transformed gentle hills into mountains and streams into torrents. He had no desire to tame the landscape. He wanted it raw. He wanted awe, he wanted terror, and he wanted sensation.

Joseph Mallord William Turner - Llanthony Abbey (1794)

Joseph Mallord William Turner - Dolbadarn Castle (1798)

Joseph Mallord William Turner - The Destruction of the Bards by Edward I (1799-1800)

Ruins, clouds, the sense of the sublime. But at the time Turner was making these paintings the Wales he had come to know, and love, was being transformed by the Industrial Revolution. Though Turner, in other works, did not shy away from creating art inspired by industrial buildings and steam trains in Wales the artist that best depicted the changes bought on by the Industrial Revolution was Merthyr Tydfil's Penry Williams.

Merthyr, previously a small village, found itself conveniently located at the time. It was near deposits of coal, iron ore, and limestone and soon grew into a dirty, crowded town. At one point it had four of the world's greatest ironworks and these were open twenty-four hours a day. Vast chimneys spewing smoke out over the valleys.

All these people together working long hours in unsafe and unsanitary conditions resulted in an inevitable uprising against the management classes. That was, predictably, put down by the British army who, it should be remembered at all times, serve to protect the nobility rather than the nation. But to go with the army's force there was a concept of using soft power to placate people as regards the plight of the ironworkers.

The industrialist William Crawshay used some of his vast wealth to commission Merthyr's own Penry Williams to make a painting that showed there was beauty, and dignity, in hard labour. Williams created Cyfarthfa Ironworks at Night because, oh, the ironmasters, they always get their way.

 Penry Williams - Cyfarthfa Ironworks at Night (1825)


Henry Hawkins - The Penrhyn Slate Quarry (1832)

But Penry Williams didn't just make the ironworks look good. He gives dignity and respect to the workers too. Like him, they are local men. Possibly they are friends and acquaintances. Williams had somehow managed to please everyone with this painting. As did Henry Hawkins, with an equivalent work from the North Wales slate quarries near Blaenau Ffestiniog. 

They're great paintings. Imposing yet still beautiful. But the men who populate them are defined solely by their labour. Unlike their bosses, or the aristocracy, artists, until this point, had denied them a personal, or interior, life. In Wales, it was William Jones Chapman who changed that. Commissioned by Francis Crawshay, of the aforementioned industrialist family, Jones Chapman used an intentionally naive style of painting to capture what he saw as the true nature, the innocence even, of the men who worked for Crawshay.

William Jones Chapman - Thos. Francis, Quarryman, Forest (1835-1840)

William Jones Chapman - William James, Roller, Forest (1835-1840)

William Jones Chapman - John Richards (John Cwmbran) (1835-1840)

Jones Chapman doesn't seem to be a well remembered man, he doesn't even have a Wikipedia page, and that seems a shame as he appears to be an interesting character. He learnt the Welsh language and was fascinated with occultism and Druidism while at the same time clearly intent on improving lives and conditions for working class communities.

He was one of several do-gooders, a word I can assure you I mean as a compliment, in Victorian Wales. Another was Hugh Hughes. Born around 1790 in Pwllygwichiad, near Llandudno, Hughes, by the mid-19th century, had become one of many painters who would criss-cross Wales looking for inspiration and sitters.

Hughes believed that newspapers, then a relatively new phenomenon, could be used as fundamental tools for improving ordinary people's lives. When he painted John Evans, a newspaper man, and his family at breakfast he paid as much attention to Evans' wife and child as he did to Evans. Evans' wife had a harelip and, in the past, obsequious portraitists (or perhaps sensitive ones) may have ignored this but Hughes felt it would have been a sin of pride to not include it.

Hughes painted it accurately - but respectfully. But Hughes, as with the more polished Caernarfon painter William Roos (whom Hughes had beaten to the John Evans gig, Roos at least getting to live next door to the fantastically named one eyed and blind Baptist preacher and star Christmas Evans across the Menai Strait from Anglesey) ended his days in poverty and obscurity. Photography had arrived and was starting to replace portrait painting. I could barely find work by Hughes or Roos on the whole Internet!

Hugh Hughes - Portrait of the Artist with his Wife and Daughter (c.1850)

William Roos - Reverend Christmas Evans (1835)

As the Industrial Revolution led to further overcrowding, pollution, and fears of a moral decline some sought comfort in the past. Or in places that felt like the past. Betws-y-Coed is now a honeypot tourist location at the gateway of Snowdonia but when the Birmingham artist David Cox set up Europe's first artist colony there in the mid-19th century, its population was around about only one hundred.

As now, they spoke Welsh in Betws-y-Coed but this did not deter visitors arriving not just from England but from France, Norway, and Hungary too. 

David Cox - A Welsh Funeral, Betws-y-Coed (1847-1850)

 Henry Clarence Whaite - A Welsh Funeral (To the Cold Earth) (1865)

Henry Clarence Whaite - The Rainbow (1862)

The star artist in the Betws-y-Coed colony was Henry Clarence Whaite who would sketch out of doors, en plein air, in all weathers and once even brought a sheep back to his hotel room in a local inn so that he could study it. Or at least that's his story. Later on, and presumably unrelated to the sheep incident, Whaite moved to the even more remote Capel Curig. A village now most famous for appearing in a title of a Half Man Half Biscuit song.

Cox and Whaite's paintings were technically proficient, dramatic, and pleasing to the eye but within half a century that would come to look very dated. The turn of the 20th century saw a revolution in art all over Europe and Wales was no exception. Ideas of shape and of colour having to be in any way realistic were, for some artists, thrown out of the window. What was important, in the new century, was not what something looked like but what it felt like.

In 1911, two young artists arrived in Snowdonia. Augustus John, in his early thirties, was already famous and he'd even met Picasso. The younger man, James Dickson Innes, was, and remains, less well known. Innes' life was cut short just three years later, at the age of just twenty-seven, by tuberculosis. A disease the Llanelli born artist was fully aware he had.

Innes knew his days were numbered. We can't know if this influenced how he painted or if he'd have painted like that anyway (or, indeed, what he may have gone on to create) but the intensity of his vision has been described, quite correctly I believe, as 'stained glass brilliance'.

James Dickson Innes - Arenig, North Wales (1913)

 James Dickson Innes - Sunset, Arenig (1911-1914)

Which is fair enough. The paintings are excellent. Radiant, warm, fauvist images that would have been beyond the brush of other British artists of the time. Even Augustus John lived, briefly, in his shade. Innes wasn't the artist who would come to overshadow Augustus John when his story would be told in the future though.

He even knew that he would, one day, eventually be known as the brother of Gwen John rather than as a painter in his own right. Quite a refreshing reversal of roles, really. Augustus and Gwen had grown up in the small Pembrokeshire seaside town of Tenby and while Augustus may have met Picasso, perhaps the world's most famous painter, Gwen went a step further and became the lover and model of Auguste Rodin, then the world's most famous sculptor.

Augustus John - Dorelia in a Landscape (1910)

Gwen John - Self-Portrait (1900)

Gwen John - Corner of the Artist's Room in Paris (1907-1909)


 Gwen John - Girl in a Blue Dress (1914-1915)

Her art, too, would have an intimacy and a lightness of touch quite at odds with contemporary British painters. Owing more to continental developments. Gwen John, and her brother, and Innes were modernists and internationalists at heart but there were other Welsh artists who remained interested in history, tradition, and the myths and folklore of Wales.

One of these was Christopher Williams who, in 1904, took a trip to Caernarfon Castle to attend a Pan-Celtic Congress. An event that proved to be something of an epiphany for him. After it he took to dressing in bardic robes and became obsessed with pre-Arthurian tales. He painted Ceridwen, a shapeshifter from the 12/13c collection of folk tales, the Mabinogion.

Ceridwen could transform into a greyhound, a hawk or even a fish. Deffroad Cymru shows the daughter of the last native born Prince of Wales and The Welsh at Mametz Wood, showing Welsh soldiers at the First Battle of the Somme in World War I, was commissioned by Williams' friend David Lloyd George who had become PM during that conflict.

 
Christopher Williams - Ceridwen (1910)

 
Christopher Williams - Deffroad Cymru (1911)

 
Christopher Williams - The Welsh at Mametz Wood (1920)
 
Another defiantly Welsh artist was Swansea's Evan Walters. Walters looked less to the mythical or ancient history of Wales and more to the here and now and was undoubtedly political. When colliery owners threatened to cut miner's wages in 1926 a nine day General Strike was called and nearly two million workers (from railwaymen to steelworkers, from printers to dockers) withdrew their labour in an ultimately futile attempt to get the British government to take action and protect their rights.
 
In South Wales, long after the other workers had returned to work, the miners stayed on strike for several months before being forced back to work. On, of course, lower wages. Waters' A Welsh Collier shows one of his friends, William Hopkins, and is a still too rare portrait of honest and dignified working class life. Bydd Myrdd o Rypeddodau (Welsh Funeral Hymn) is something quite different.

 
Evan Walters - A Welsh Collier (1936)


Evan Walters - Bydd Myrdd o Rypeddodau (1950)

It is painting that is filled with despair and with anger about hardscrabble life in the valleys. It features stigmata, wasted youth, and, almost merging into the dark slagheap of a hill they stand atop, a choir singing a dismal lament. It is a painting that seems resigned to the fact the dice will always be loaded in favour of the rich and yet, at the same time, rallies against this, powerfully demands change.

The 1930s had left the industrial heartlands of South Wales devastated. Cedric Morris, an eccentric artist and gardener and, dangerously in those times, an open and proud homosexual, believed he was the man who could transform society. Morris would both work and teach in local valley communities, joined the local Labour party, and arranged for touring exhibitions of Welsh art. His idea was to give the working class Welsh people pride in themselves and to take control of their own destinies.

Cedric Morris - Lougher from Penclawdd (1936)

 
Cedric Morris - Dowlais from the Cinder Tips (1935)

As you can see from the painting above, and the one that heads up this blog, Morris was honest in his portrayal of the area. There are chimneys belching smoke out in to the surrounding mountains but this honesty adds to, rather than subtracts from, his ode to working class Welsh life. Of course, paintings alone could not alter the plight of an oppressed people but every little helps.

Sometimes a subtle reframing of the story, a gentle nudge of inspiration can change what people feel is possible. Even if it takes generations for that to transform an entire community. More experimental than Cedric Morris was his near contemporary Ceri Richards. Richards had been inspired by the modern art of Cezanne, Manet, Renoir, and Van Gogh and when you look at his 1934 self-portrait you can see a knowledge of Vorticism and Italian Futurism.

 
Ceri Richards - Self-Portrait (1934)

 
Ceri Richards - Man With a Pipe (1934)

 
Ceri Richards - Tinplate Worker Booting Up (1942)

When you look at Man With a Pipe, from the same year, you can see is making far bolder art than others in Britain would have dared to at the time. Even now, some snigger at it. During World War II, Richards was commissioned by the Ministry of Information to make a series of watercolours about the industrial war effort and here we can see echoes of the works of Evan Walters and Cedric Morris.

Giving dignity to workers at an even more difficult time than they could have imagined even a decade earlier. With war, pollution, and poor relations between bosses and workers (the masses against the classes) it's unsurprising that some chose to flee into more rural areas and flee, too, into the past. Welsh environmentalists like Brenda Chamberlain settled in Snowdonia where they, with echoes of William Jones Chapman a century earlier, learned the Welsh language and customs.


Brenda Chamberlain - Self-Portrait (1938)

As you may guess from her self-portrait, Chamberlain was something of a proto-hippy. She promoted the poetry of Dylan Thomas and, eventually, she found even Snowdonia too hectic. Moving instead to the remote and desolate Bardsey Island off the coast of the Llyn Peninsula, a pilgrimage site since the sixth century where she believed she could both eat and think straight!

 
Brenda Chamberlain - Girl With a Siamese Cat (1951)

 
Brenda Chamberlain - The Fisherman's Return (1949)
 
 
Kyffin Williams - Snowdon from near Harlech (?)

 
Kyffin Williams - Hill Farm in Merioneth (1958)

Paint straight too by the looks of it. Another artist, Kyffin Williams from Llangefni in Anglesey, took one of those now familiar journeys into the wild Welsh landscape and in doing so became the most popular Welsh artist of the twentieth century. Williams used a painting knife, rather than a brush, to capture the solidity of the mountains. His paintings, however, are fairly traditional in their beauty.

It takes a different eye to find beauty in the often grey slate town of Blaneau Ffestiniog. The slate from Blaneau built Victorian Britain but, on arrival - I speak from personal experience, the town can appear both depressing and forlorn. This did mean, however, after the decline of the slate industry, that cheap accommodation was available and, in the 1960s, the sculptor David Nash took advantage of that.

Nash had been born in Surrey but had spent holidays in and around the area and had come to fall in love with the grey, imposing place. He moved into an old chapel, where he still lives and works now, and set about sculpting with wood.

 
David Nash - Crack and Warp Column (2006)

His works are beautiful evocations of nature but they were, in the sixties, perhaps a little out of step with the times. Sixties Wales was torn by protests. In 1965 the Tryweryn Valley, where people had lived for generations, was flooded by seventy billion litres of water - a reservoir so that the people of Liverpool could have more water.

The village of Capel Celyn disappeared entirely beneath that reservoir which took the slightly false name of Llyn Celyn. One person who was particularly unhappy about this, and certainly not the only one, was Huw Stephens' own father. Meic Stephens was a poet and journalist but he considered the two most important words he ever wrote to be the two he graffitied on a stone near Llanrhystud in the country of Ceredigion.


Meic Stephens - Cofiwch Dryweryn

Cofiwch Dryweryn (or Remember Tyrweryn) was his attempt to make sure that though an entire village and that village's entire history had been erased from the face of the Earth, the memory of it, and the anger that stemmed from that act, would live on.

Another angry young Welsh artist was Ivor Davies. Davies created work that was intended to be, and was, blown up. A powerful protest against both the commercialisation of art and against the politics of the time. Along with a group of other artists - conceptual, abstract, and figurative - most of them with the surname Davies, Ivor Davies promoted wider use of the Welsh language and some even seemed to celebrate the burning of second homes. A particularly popular activity, in the eighties, in the Llyn Peninsula where I'm due to go on holiday in July.

 
Paul Davies - Welsh Not (1977)

 
Peter Davies - Ty Haf (?)

Since Welsh devolution in 1997, at a time when bands like Manic Street Preachers, Super Furry Animals, and Catatonia were putting Welsh music and culture on the map more than ever, Wales has had more political power and there is a new confidence there. Recent art reflects that. 
 
From Daniel Trivedy's 'emergency' Welsh blankets (a conceptual piece made when he became concerned by the poor materials in which asylum seekers and refugees were being clothed in) to Shani Rhys James' psychological portraits and on to the humorous work of art prankster Bedwyr Williams. Williams is a serious art prankster. He imagines what a megalopolis may look like in the Welsh countryside, asks visitors to don a pair of size thirteen clown shoes and stagger around the exhibition space like clowns, and, of course - this is Wales, references bards and harps in 2005's Bard Attitude.
 
It brought a fascinating, entertaining, and educational programme to a close with a neat sense of circularity. It was good to learn so much more about Welsh art and I hope this is just the start of a rediscovery and re-evaluation of Welsh art. It also made me want to visit many of the sites mentioned in this programme. Fortunately, I will be doing exactly that soon.


Shani Rhys James - Studio, Self Portrait (?)
 
 
Shani Rhys James - Head II (2002)
 

Daniel Trivedy - Welsh Emergency Blankets (?)
 
 
Bedwyr Williams - Walk A Mile In My Shoes (2006)


Bedwyr Williams - Tyrrau Mawr (2016)

 
Bedwyr Williams - Bard Attitude (2005)