Sicily Part III:Messina, Terrapin Station.

Messina is far less of a tourist attraction than Cefalu or, indeed, Palermo. It doesn't have the beaches of the former and it doesn't have the architecture and history of the latter but what it does have is wonderful views and a laid back, if slightly careworn, atmosphere. Oh, and terrapins. They've got terrapins too. For some reason.

The train from Cefalu (with stops at Patti and Milazzo looking quite inviting) had taken two hours and on arrival I couldn't help but enjoy the views across to the Aeolian Islands and, even more so, the view across to mainland Italy, the Calabria region. It looked good during the day and even more spectacular at night when it's all lit up. It's near enough that you can make out individual buildings if not in any great detail.

As the main crossing point between Sicily and the mainland of Italy (mainland Europe even) it is, unsurprisingly, busy. Passenger ferries, some with trains on, shuttle back and forth non-stop and huge cruise ships are parked up in the dock. I took a very tasty, and mahoosive, pizza, in Fratelli la Bufala, a well respected Neapolitan chain and washed it down with a Coca-Cola (an experience only slightly soured by them playing shitty lounge muzak covers of Shania Twain and Robbie Williams, what is with this crap? Does anyone actually like it? Are there people out there who like Robbie Williams but wish he was even more bland?) and then headed along the front, a fairly long walk, to the AirBnB where I was greeted by the snappers you can see above.

The dining area (which I'd make no use of whatsoever) had great sea views across to Calabria but I opted for a siesta. Heat, travelling, and pizza. It's tiring business. When I woke I walked back to the city centre, had a look around its impressive - and, compared to Palermo, empty duomo and campanile before taking in a few other buildings and fountains and enjoying a chocolate and lemon gelato.

After that I climbed up to the Panoramica to watch the sun set over the Strait of Messina before heading back down to find myself, who'd have thought it, outside Docker's Bar. It seemed like the sort of place I could run in to some ex-pats and chat bollocks about football but it was dead. So I watched Slavia Prague play Bodo/Glimt on the television pretty much alone while my phone made a pathetic attempt to charge itself up.

I thought more locals might arrive for the Ajax v Inter game but not really. It didn't stop me staying for a couple more though. I'd only ever really planned Messina as a stopping point between Cefalu and Taormina and though I'd enjoyed how different it felt (in places) one night was enough. The next morning I walked to the station, had a mini pizza and a Fanta at Moka (the train station cafe) and boarded my next train of the holiday. The train to Taormina. More on that next time.