TADS #42:Chirk to Llangollen (or Yng Nghysgod Castell Y Fran).

From high up in the hills of Eglwyseg near Llangollen you can enjoy fresh air, beautiful, awe-inspiring, views and get some kind of perspective on the enormity of nature. On a TADS two day walk that was more like a holiday than any walk we have previously done I was able to enjoy not only all of that but also gain some perspective on what is important in life.

The sound of my friends laughter from breakfast to midnight each day of the walk, the smiles on their faces as they ascended heather and fern strewn hills and walked across aqueducts and through tunnels reminded me that friendship is one of the most important things in life. It's certainly the best thing to pick you up when you've been feeling down - which I had a little lately.

For that, and going against blog tradition, I'd like to thank Pam, Kathy, Neil B, Belinda, Catherine, Neil W, Tina, Darren, Cheryl, Tommy, Adam, Teresa, Justine, and, Michelle (who was my partner in crime when it came to much of the logistics regarding arranging this walk) for lifting my spirits simply by virtue of being their generous, kind, and silly selves. I'd also like to thank them for the photos that I have added to the blog and for their company not just over this last weekend but over the last months, years, and, in most cases, decades.

I can't forget Luca and Betsi either. I was a bit nervous about having one dog on the walk but on the second day Luca was joined by Betsi and it all turned out fine. It did make me think that if this rate of increase of canine participation continues there will soon be more dogs than people. One last shout out before I get into the story of the weekend and it still saddens me now that Shep was unable to join us due to breaking his ankle the weekend before. I know he'd have loved it and we didn't even get the satisfaction of all sending him a  photo of us clutching ice cold Banglas in the curry house. Get well soon, mate. I can't always guarantee more than ten people (and two dogs) to take your place.

As Shep wasn't able to attend I started Friday morning by taking the Overground to Highbury and Islington and the tube to Finsbury Park where I met Pam and Kathy and Kathy drove us up to Llangollen (just shy of four hours and a lovely journey full of jokes and chat) and we checked in to the Cambrian Hotel (Cath, the owner, was absolutely brilliant and my room was comfy, clean, and had a wonderful view from the window) before Pam and I headed down to Llangollen, took our first look at the beautiful Dee river as it flows through the small town (population somewhere between 3,000 and 4,000), grabbed a coffee and a Coke, and waited, slowly but surely for all the others to arrive.

 

 

Which they soon did. I was feeling a bit under par and people were telling me I wasn't looking well, that I was looking pale, and I was gagging on thin air so when we finally headed into The Three Eagles for a drink I had a water and a weak pint of lager and sipped it slowly. Soon I would be feeling better and as the weekend progressed my improvement was gradual but certain. By the end my appetite had even returned.

We gathered with those who hadn't made it in The Corn Mill (a genuinely lovely pub with the most amazing views from the decking and one I have visited with Michelle several times before - Neil W had also been before but this time it was so good to introduce it to other friends). I had a Moroccan vegetable and chickpea pie and we all enjoyed a couple more drinks there and then in the rather unorthodox, and way too light and noisy, Bensons. That's where the pink trike was part of the decor though they also had the Wombles entrapped in a haunted pram and all sorts of other tat. It wasn't pulled off as stylishly as The Black Boy in Winchester but the chat was good - even if we had to sit out back in an area Neil B described as feeling like an MFI warehouse.

After a night in which I didn't sleep at all (worry, illness, who knows but it certainly wasn't the hotel that was to blame) I came down to the first of many lovely surprises across the weekend. It was my birthday and Cath and her staff had put a candle in my veggie sausage before all coming out to sing Happy Birthday to me.

"Have you ever had a candle in your sausage before?" asked Catherine in one of the weekend's many bizarre euphemisms. It wasn't until I was on the way home on Monday I thought of singing that I'd lived my life like a candle in a sausage. Darren, Cheryl, Tommy, and Luca (who like Neil W and Tina) were camping woke to an equally impressive view as the cloud shrouded hills around Llangollen provided a spectacular backdrop to their campsite.

I was anxious we not miss the bus to Chirk (as the service is irregular and taxis are hard to come by) but luckily everyone arrived in good time and trying to find the elusive bus stop was more of a problem than timekeeping. Masks on, the bus gave us another sneak preview of some of the sights we'd see later and took us into Chirk where we met with Michelle who, second lovely surprise of the day, revealed she had brought me a Breville sandwich toaster for my birthday. It was presented to me the following morning and I had my first delicious cheese'n'beans (though sadly not 'creamy beans') toastie from it yesterday.

Chirk is a former coal mining community and a stop on the A5 road from London to Holyhead. We headed along the railway lines (next stop:- Gobowen, Shropshire) and down a footpath to the Chirk Aqueduct. 70ft high and 710ft long (although the newer railway viaduct alongside it is taller still), it takes the Llangollen Canal across the Ceiriog Valley (the Ceiriog is a Dee tributary) and was designed by Thomas Telford. A Scottish born leading light of the Industrial Revolution, nicknamed 'the Colossus of Roads' (he basically invented the A5) and famed for his canals, aqueducts, and bridges like the Menai Suspension Bridge into Anglesey.

Chirk Aqueduct was built between 1796 and 1801 and was, briefly, the tallest navigable aqueduct ever built. We crossed over, briefly, into England for the only time on the entire walk, and then back where we soon encountered another piece of Telford's design.

The Chirk Tunnel was constructed at the same time as the aqueduct and Telford's partner in the project was one William Jessop (a Devon man who worked on the Oxford Canal and the West India Docks in London). It is 421 metres long and is almost pitch black in the middle. Lights from narrowboats helped as did Tommy's torch but there were times it was hard to keep one's footing. It was an experience that was both enjoyable and slightly unnerving. To go through it in a narrowboat must be interesting but not sure I'd like to attempt it in a canoe as many were.

From here we continued along the Llangollen Canal, stopping to admire flora and fauna and to allow a tractor to pass. As the canal curved round, Telford's major local project came into impressive view. At 126ft high the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct takes the canal over the Dee. It's the highest canal aqueduct in the world and one of three UNESCO World Heritage sites in well (alongside Conwy Castle and the Blaenavon Industrial Landscape). I've crossed it before and it's a bit scary. There were at least two in our party who were even more worried than me - though there was one, the youngest one, who was very blase about the whole situation. Which only served to concern me more.

The views are outstanding though and, perhaps even better, there is a pub the other side called, of course, The Telford. We repaired there for soft drinks, beers, and bowls of cheesy chips (there was even talk of a 'two bowl mistake' but soon we were moving again. Enjoying sunflowers as we followed the Llangollen Canal to Trefor/Trevor.

The Llangollen Canal is a modern designation for part of the Ellesmere Canal and it's part of the Shropshire Union Canals. It runs from Hurleston in Cheshire to Horseshoe Falls (really a reservoir but quite a nice one) just west of Llangollen. I'd originally intended for us to continue on to the 'Falls' (as much so I could mention the name of Exuperius Pickering who designed an early iteration of a bridge nearby as anything) but the general consensus was that everyone had had a lovely day and a walk back into Llangollen and a freshen up before the evening's birthday meal would be best.

We had another drink in The Sun Inn in Trefor and hatched plans for tomorrow's convoy to get us to the start of the walk and we followed the canal to our walk's end. I love this particular stretch with its views over the verdant Dee valley and the part where the canal, on one side, is abutted by dramatic rocks and what looks, to me at least, like graceful Italianate gardens.

There's even a house that looks a bit like a castle. Back in Llangollen some had an ice cream, some went back to their hotel for a bath (Pam and Kathy were sharing a very pretty annex building), and I had a lay down before heading out, with Adam and Teresa, to The Bull for a drink.

Not a great choice of pub unless you like swearing at football on television or looking at cleavages (which to be fair, are both things I have enjoyed over the years). I couldn't help wondering what the young girl eating saveloy and chips out of a polystyrene box was doing there. Perhaps she was the manager. There do appear to be some very young people working in the pubs and restaurants of Llangollen.

A far better choice was the beer garden of The Hand Hotel where we met most of the others before we all rocked up at The Royal Spice. Not only was there no Bangla so we could tease Shep with photos - there was no booze at all. For MY birthday meal!

It wasn't a problem. A nearby Co-Op furnished me, and others, with two bottles of Cobra and though the meal was slow coming it was worth the wait. Lovely poppadums with raita, tamarind, mango chutney, and lime pickle and then a veggie jalfrezi (too spicy tbh - a lot got left sadly) and a garlic and cheese naan. Best of all my friends wouldn't allow me to pay and they all sang Happy Birthday to me accompanied not only by the waiters but by the diners at other tables too.

More touching than embarrassing, I nearly cried! A few of us headed over to The Prince of Wales pub across the road. It promised cocktails and Teresa was very tempted by one but was told they don't do cocktails at weekends! What they did do is let every late night drinker, except the underage ones, in. There were people there to dance, people there to pull, people there to watch cricket on television, people to drink, and people who could barely stand up.

It wasn't the best place but we had fun anyway and I was back in my hotel bedroom around midnight for a better night's sleep. Saturday had been great but, by most feedback I have received, Sunday would be better.

It began with a Quorn sausage sandwich, a trip to the local shop to buy some toothpaste, and a presentation of a sandwich toaster and, remarkably, it improved from that. Michelle's sister Justine, with her dog Betsi, was joining us but the long walk I had planned wasn't enough for her so she walked most of the way to the start of it to get a few extra steps in.

The rest of us took a slightly convoluted but highly effective convoy of cars up to the Ponderosa biker's cafe at the Horseshoe Pass. Neil W loves his bikes so the car park was porn for him. I'd visited before with Michelle and I have enjoyed their chip butties but it was too soon after breakfast. I probably should have got some food though and I wouldn't have had to rely on Justine's jam butties, Michelle's oatcakes, and Cheryl's crisps later. I seem to arrange things well for other people on these walks but atrociously for myself. 

Must improve. Once we'd all gathered up, and Belinda, Catherine, and Neil B, had caught up with an old friend, Rebecca, who now lives nearby we headed off. A gentle breeze thankfully accompanied us as we climbed and climbed and climbed. Soon the group were very spread out. Tommy flying ahead at the front while a few suffered a bit at the back.

The panoramic views made it all worthwhile though and once we'd taken a short break for sandwiches and crisps and all regrouped, Tommy and myself investigating a cairn, near a large phone mast we were soon descending. This time using Justine's local knowledge of the area to lead the way.

This, as with everything on the walk, was an utterly gorgeous section. Ferns flanked our path, we hopped over a babbling brook, and we zig-zagged through the rugged but reassuring Welsh landscape before, eventually, reaching a single lane road. One that looked familiar to me as I'd passed through it during my walk along Offa's Dyke Path some years back.

The road descended into what is called World's End and here the Eglywseg river (another Dee tributary) crossed the road in a ford. Justine had advised to use the stepping stones as the algae made it slippery and I had passed this information on to the walkers only to daftly wade through it myself and nearly go for a 'Burton'.

While here four young boy racers in matching, though different colour, BMWs passed by and a few remarked on what a bunch of dicks they were. They may not have been - but it seems likely they were. Why would you hire four almost identical cars and drive around separately instead of one and drive around together? Don't they like talking to each other?

We climbed, gently, uphill again. At first under a forested canopy where, once Justine and Tommy - our reconnaissance unit - had identified a suitable spot, we stopped again for more snacks. Our location, and the sheer number of us, made us look like fairy folk or woodland critters having a picnic or maybe listening to a story. I love the photo so much it is the final one of this blogged account.

From here we came out into the Eglwyseg Valley (enclosed by dramatic and imposing cliffs with names like Craig y Forwyn, Craig y Cythraul, and Craig yr Ader and making up a formidable escarpment that can be seen for miles around) and took a path along a part of it that, from a distance, you would not think possible.

Steep steep drops to one side and plenty of loose scree had me worried somebody would lose their footing (and Michelle nearly did) while Adam half-joked that the rocks would rip your skin off as you fell anyway. Kathy and others took great concern at the distressed bellows of a cow that were echoing around the valley.

This stretch lasted for a while and impressive though it was it was quite nice to walk on grass again and not have to worry about somebody taking their final plunge. This was the most sheep heavy stretch of the day (though they were around most of the day in some form) and once I'd given Tommy a swing on a farmyard gate we came out on a road with, finally, Dinas Bran on the horizon.

There were, now, two options for the walkers. The low road (back into Llangollen) or the high road which would take us up a very steep hill but would afford us inspection of the ruined castle of Dinas Bran. After a little procrastination Kathy, Michelle (who has been there loads of times anyway), Darren, Tommy, and Luca dipped out and the rest of us carried on.

Everyone who carried on was, I think, eventually, glad they did but, oh, the climb was tough after a few hours of walking. Belinda and Neil B gave it a real good go but were sadly defeated and some of the rest of us needed a serious lie down at the top. Cheryl clambered on one of the rocks for a great photo opportunity but missed an opportunity to sing her trademark tune Empire State of Mind.

Castell Dinas Bran was probably built in the 1260s by Gruffydd Maelor II, a Prince of Powys Fadog, on the site of an Iron Age hillfort. It didn't stand as a castle for much longer than ten years and now it makes for a dramatic backdrop to the already pretty Llangollen and a lovely spot for picnics, photo ops, or a crafty can. A couple of years back I had a picnic at the top with Michelle and Evie and still recall the tasty halloumi we had and how happy I felt to be there and with them.

 

We descended Dinas Bran on a ziggy-zaggy path and took a few country lanes back into Llangollen for a last drink, or two, in The Cornmill. Justine's partner Julian joined us briefly and seemed to enjoy sharing motorbike chat with Neil W.

Some went back to their digs to freshen up or have a bath, others were 'out out'. We all met up in Gales wine bar for, for me, a couple more pints of Wrexham lager, a vegan burger and chips and a shared cheeseboard with Neil W in which we imagined a television series in which we travel around the country trying out cheeseboards and humorously bantering about them. The burger was good (rather than great) but the chips were lovely and came in all different sizes!

Teresa finally got her cocktail, Adam gave Tommy £10 for completing (almost) both walks, there was a lot of red wine (Peculiar Mr Pat) going down, and, as with both previous nights the laughter was infectious (I honestly don't think I have ever heard Pam laugh so much and she's hardly humourless). A feature of these larger walks I really love is looking round to see people who don't necessarily know each other that well deep in conversation or enjoying a joke and a drink.

A few of us went to Bensons for one last drink and, it being the Sunday of a Bank Holiday weekend, there were a few folk around who were somewhat refreshed but we were only lightly so and we were happier than them because we'd been on two lovely walks (even if I do say so myself) and spent a weekend in great company. I had an extra boost because my friends, once again, wouldn't allow this spoilt brat to pay for yet another meal. A largesse that was, I think - correctly, extended to Michelle as well this time around.

I felt blessed by this act of generosity, by being able to visit and enjoy such outstanding scenery and by being fit enough to manage these walks but most of all I felt blessed because I generally think this group of friends, as well as a handful of absentees, must rate as one of the best groups of friends anyone could wish for. Back at home now I have even more perspective to see that but, as Neil B sang many times, over the weekend "it's always better on holiday, so much better on holiday".

Diolch. See you all again soon.